Aug 24, 2018
A Guide to Surf Safety: Currents, Tides, and Sun

Unlike other sports where the playing field is constant or predictable, surfing is a sport with an element of infinite surprise. No two sessions are ever the same. There are multiple factors that play into what makes a surf break work, including tide, wind, and swell direction, height, and period. Then throw in ocean currents, marine life, and other surfers and you have an ever-changing playground.

It is this continuously changing environment that makes surfing so appealing and difficult. Because there are so many factors, surfing can be dangerous if you are not cognizant of the semi-avoidable hazards. For the most stoke-provoking and safe surf session, you must be well-versed in the following components that make up the sport of surfing.

Ocean currents

To the untrained eye, ocean currents, such as rip currents are nearly invisible. It is only when you get stuck in a current that you will get a glimpse of the ocean’s underlying strength. It is important when you are surfing, especially if you aren’t in top surf shape, to pay attention and not let yourself get sucked out too far from the line-up. Paddling back in against the current can be exhausting.

Rip currents can be very dangerous if you don’t understand them, get caught in one, and panic. Read “Safety and Wellness Tips to Follow While in Costa Rica” for a brief lesson on this particular common type of current and how to get out of one.

Rip currents in Costa Rica
The ocean is alive | © Life is a Wonder/Flickr

Tides

There are two high tides and two low tides every day. The tides will change every day (usually between 30 and 60 minutes) and the length of time between tides varies from place to place but is typically around every six hours. The moon cycle also affects how big the tides are. The difference between low and high tide in Playa Grande is quite impressive and sometimes upwards up 10 feet.

Different breaks work best around different tides. Playa Grande is usually at its best from a mid to high tide or high to mid tide. However, if you are a beginner surfer, surfing at a lower tide might be more desirable since the strength and size of the waves isn’t usually as strong or big.

Sometimes in Playa Grande, when the tide is particularly high there can be a backwash effect. If you are surfing when this is happening, be extra careful as this presents an added level unpredictability and challenge.

high tide in Playa Grande
In coming tide | © Phucket@Photographer.net/Flickr

Sun

While you should always wear sunscreen when out in the sun and in the surf (reef-friendly sunscreen, of course), it is incredibly important to do so in Costa Rica. Costa Rica is only 10 degrees north of the equator and due to this close proximity the sun is extra strong here; not to mention the added strength from the reflection on the ocean. A wicked sunburn can wreck your surf vacation.

Also, unlike other sports where you visibly sweat and have easy access to water or other hydrating liquids, when you are surfing it is far more difficult to gauge dehydration. Between the beating sun and the constant paddling and movement, you are losing a lot of water even if you don’t realize it. Dehydration is dangerous. Make sure that you drink plenty of water before you go for a surf and to rehydrate often.

Surfing in Playa Grande, Costa Rica
Only chance for shade | © duncanduncan12011/Flickr

*This portion of the surf guide will be split into two parts. Part two will include safety information regarding marine life, surf equipment, and other surfers, and the importance of trusting your intuition.

In the meantime, go get some waves!

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Aug 12, 2018
A Brief Guide to Surfing in Playa Grande: Play by the Rules

Playa Grande has gained quite the reputation for its waves. The expansive beach break is a swell magnet and the likelihood of there being waves on any given day is high. On small swell days, the surf is accessible and safe for nearly anyone who wants to have a go. On bigger days, the surf can be very heavy and not ideal for inexperienced surfers.

It is the consistent, fun, and warm surf that draws both experienced and first-time surfers to Playa Grande. For both novice and seasoned surfers, it is important to know and follow the rules of surfing, to know your level and place in the surf, to respect the forces and elements of the ocean, and to remember that surfing is supposed to be fun and that there are enough waves to share.

In this brief three-part guide, we will share the top four rules of surfing, some tips about surfing in Playa Grande, important things to be aware of, and how to be the best surfer in the sea.

Part 1: The Top Four Rules of Surfing

You wouldn’t play or participate in any other sport without first knowing the rules of the game, yet many people enter the sea to surf without first knowing the rules of this sport. If you don’t play by the rules surfing becomes a far more dangerous activity for you and those around you. Fortunately, the rules of surfing are probably some for the simplest rules of any sport.

Rule #1: Know who has the right of way on the wave.

The person who is closest to the peak of the wave has the right of way. Dropping in on someone (taking the wave when it is clearly not yours and the surfer who had the right of way is already on it or about to go) is not only rude and very frowned upon, but also very dangerous. If you happen to drop in on someone accidently, pull off of the wave, if possible, and of course apologize.

It is important to always pay attention, to constantly look around, and to double check that the wave is yours and it is safe to go before you go.

Rule #2: Don’t ditch your board.

Unless there is absolutely no one around you and you feel that you don’t have another choice, do not ditch your board if you bail on a wave or you are paddling back out and a wave is about to break in front of you. Ditching your board is extremely risky if there are other people around you. It is also hazardous to yourself, as you have no control over where the ocean might toss your board and it could end up hitting you.

If you find yourself in a situation where you can’t duck dive the wave or you get stuck in the whitewater zone, hang on to your board until the set passes and then start paddling back out again.

Surf safety in Costa Rica
Be careful with your surfboard | © Phucket@photographer.net/Flickr

Rule #3: Use some common sense when paddling out.

When paddling out to the line-up, whether for the first time or back out after a wave, don’t paddle in a straight line directly to the peak. This is where other surfers are taking off and trying to catch their waves. Paddle around and then work your way back to the spot that you want to be.

Rule #4: Respect the other surfers.

Like any other surf spot, there are surfers who live here and that is their home break. If you want to be respected in the surf, you must also be respectful. Playa Grande is blessed with seemingly endless waves and the waves belong to no one and everyone.

It is important to maintain a positive and friendly attitude and to not be that surfer that ruins it for everyone by acting like this is your spot. Don’t be a wave hog and don’t paddle around other surfers in an aggressive “I’m going to catch every wave” type of way.

Waves in Playa Grande, Costa Rica
Now, go get shacked! | © Warm Winds Surf Shop/Flickr

If everyone just follows the basic rules and uses some common sense and common courtesy, everyone can have a wave-filled and stoke-worthy session in Playa Grande.

Up next: Some valuable insight and safety information about surfing in Playa Grande.

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